Shane Meadows : representations of liminality, masculinity and class (2024)

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Film Review: When Too Much Spectacle is Not Enough: Costume in Baz Luhrmann's The Great Gatsby (edited version) Karen de PerthuisPace was never going to be a problem with Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby (2013) which, by the time I got round to seeing it, had clearly divided opinion. A hit at the box office, the critics had been scathing. David Denby of The New Yorker suggested it was less a film than a music video made with ‘endless resources and a stunning absence of taste’ (2013: 79). The respected fashion writer, Colin McDowell, condemned it ‘as vacuous as the pages of most fashion magazines’ (2013). But ever hopeful that Luhrmann and production designer Catherine Martin could repeat the visually thrilling experience of Romeo+Juliet (Luhrmann, 1996) I was willing to take my chances. I was expecting spectacle – ‘glitz and bling’ as someone else put it. I went for the costumes. I went for the fashion. The film has an excess of both. So why the disappointment?Let’s start with the costume. By chance, I had spent the afternoon at the V&A’s popular ‘Hollywood Costume’ exhibition showing at the Australian Centre for Moving Images (ACMI) in Melbourne, so I did not need to be reminded that costume design involves the creativity and hard work of many talented individuals. In the complex process of getting a script to the screen, nothing is left to chance; everything matters. In this, The Great Gatsby is no exception, and if ACMI (or the V&A) were to put all of the film’s spectacular Academy Award winning costumes on show, I have no doubt that they too would draw murmurs of admiration from the visiting crowds.But at ‘Hollywood Costume’, spectacle is not given pride of place. In the curator notes and in the interviews with designers, actors and directors, the exhibition at ACMI had one take-home message: the most important function of costume design is not to provide spectacle, but to transform the actor into a character we can believe in. In the book Hollywood Costume (2012), published in concert with the exhibition, costume designer and fashion scholar Deborah Nadoolman Landis offers the representative view that costume embodies ‘the psychological, social and emotional condition of the character at a particular moment in the script’ (2012: 52). In this, it is hard not to hear echoes of Edith Head’s so-called ‘storytelling wardrobes’, written about by Jane Gaines in her influential article, ‘Costume and narrative: How dress tells the woman’s story’ (1990: 180). Although Nadoolman Landis emphasizes that ‘costumes are so much more than clothes’ (2012: 52), Gaines’s analysis suggests that it is only when costume ‘disappears’ into ‘clothes’ that it can effectively portray character. In other words, what we are supposed to see on the screen is not an actor dressed in a costume but ‘merely someone wearing clothes’ (Gaines 1990: 192). If we buy into this fiction, then the film can concentrate on the narrative and we can sit back and enjoy the story.Of course, if the actor happens to be playing Elizabeth I, Marie-Antoinette or Daisy Buchanan, a certain degree of spectacle is required. But even costumes that dazzle can serve the narrative by revealing the psychological state of a character – the exterior shell of costume, if you like, is innermost feelings turned inside-out. In her book, Hollywood Catwalk (2010), Tamar Jeffers McDonald offers examples of transformation scenes where a character tries on numerous outfits in an attempt to find one that is ‘just right’ – a Goldilocks- style trope that, often as not, combines fashion spectacle with a final choice that, in costume terms, is the perfect psychological ‘fit’. When it comes to The Great Gatsby, Fitzgerald helps out by describing what his characters are wearing: ‘Gatsby, in a white flannel suit, silver shirt, and gold-coloured tie’ ([1926] 1974: 90–91); ‘the grey haze of Daisy’s fur collar’ ([1926] 1974: 115); Myrtle’s ‘spotted dress of dark blue crêpe de chine’ ([1926] 1974: 31). The film cherry-picks these clues and then fills in the gaps.So we get Carey Mulligan’s Daisy, America’s version of an aristocrat, wistful and romantic in pastel confections. At Gatsby’s party, wearing a Prada-designed stole that frames her delicate features in a lilac haze of fur, she is seductively vulnerable – but also trapped prey, an image that reinforces Gatsby’s vision of her as something rare and precious. Gatsby (Leonardo di Caprio) himself is appropriately obsessive about his appearance, everything is hand-finished, everything perfect. His fondness for ‘brands’ (‘My man in England sends things over’), his compulsive expenditure (that extraordinary shirt scene), and his conspicuous display of wealth all betray a character who is both conscious of the symbolic power of clothes and clearly eager to impress.For this viewer, interest starts to wane when it comes to the supporting characters. Jordan Baker (Elizabeth Debicki), with her ‘hard, jaunty body’ (Fitzgerald [1926] 1974: 65) probably makes sense as a fashion-plate; fickle, all surface and ‘incurably dishonest’ ([1926] 1974: 65), she plays into the popular stereotype of fashion and the fashionable as morally bankrupt. Tom Buchanan (Joel Edgerton), dressed as ‘the sporting hero’, successfully conveys the impression of someone who never loses. But tragic Myrtle Wilson (Isla Fisher), Tom’s low-rent mistress, dolled-up and overdrawn in reds and blacks? And Nick (conveniently played by Fitzgerald lookalike, Tobey McGuire) in a cardigan and bow tie? Surely there are rules against turning nuanced characters into cardboard cutouts?The same broad brushstrokes are applied to the party scenes, those lavish spectacles showing Gatsby ‘dispensing starlight to casual moths’ (Fitzgerald [1926] 1974: 85) that form the backdrop to much of the action. Fitzgerald coined the term ‘The Jazz Age’ and Luhrmann’s film fills the screen with everything we have come to expect of the era, as well as adding a mass of pop culture clichés from our own. The effect is a mash-up of frenzied kineticism. ‘It’s not too much, is it?’ asks Gatsby. Obligingly, Nick shakes his head, ‘No’.But it is. I love this sort of stuff and want these scenes to work. Film is made for such moments and it’s not hard to imagine that Gatsby’s parties were designed to resemble a euphoric explosion from one of those cannon-sized bottles of Moët that keep turning up in the film. Every shimmying guest, kiss-curled dancer and spangled entertainer a gorgeous sparkling droplet, cascading across the screen in a glorious celebration of wealth, beauty and excess. Instead, the spinning dizzyness is nauseating and all the intricate elements of design get lost as they dissolve into a kaleidoscopic vomit of confetti, streamers and glitter.Perhaps I would not have minded so much if Luhrmann had managed to make it all mean something, if he had not made the mistake of confusing excess with decadence, if he had not made it all look like such good, clean fun. Where are the consequences? Where are the torn dresses, the shredded hearts, the angry diamonds and the trainwrecked souls that are scattered throughout the novel? Colin McDowell is right to compare the film to a fashion magazine; youth, sex, money, image – like the glossy pages of Vogue, the film has it all. But he is right for the wrong reasons. Despite the collaboration with Prada and the commercial tie-ins with Tiffany’s, Brooks Brothers, Fogal and so on; despite costumes that could walk straight from the cineplex to the retail store, the problem with the presence of fashion in this film is not that there is too much, but that there is too little.Let me clarify. What fashion can do, what fashion offers a film like The Great Gatsby, is an immediate entrée into a gilt-edged world. Not without reason, fashion has a reputation as obsessively preoccupied with surface and appearance; it is superficial, frivolous and fickle – all traits that play precisely into Fitzgerald’s depiction of hard, cut-glass characters, those ‘careless people’ who casually abandon people and things ([1926] 1974: 186). Instinctively, Luhrmann gets this. But whereas Fitzgerald knows the value of the shadow side of style to the telling of his tale, Luhrmann cannot help turning back towards the light.Darkness and Luhrmann, it has been suggested, ‘don’t really move in the same circles’ (Davies 2013: 40). Fashion is not so squeamish; the best fashion imagery understands that the flip side of glamour is death. In ignoring the dual nature of fashion, by keeping it one-dimensional, or at best a cipher, Luhrmann misses the chance to corral his considerable talent for spectacle into a film that would have been worthy of Fitzgerald’s novel. If Luhrmann had got the costume, spectacle and fashion right, then perhaps he would have also got right Fitzgerald’s depiction of the Janus-faced coin of the American Dream. Where the author gives us a mirror, the filmmaker gives us ... nothing.

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Midway through the 1986 teen movie Pretty in Pink comes a strikingly memorable scene. The film's main character, Andie (Molly Ringwald), sits nonchalantly in the local record store where she works. Adorned with posters of mid-1980s post-punk groups like New Order and The Smiths, the store represents Andie's strong alternative music identity. In this particular scene, however, Andie's boss places a recording of Otis Redding's "Try a Little Tenderness" on the turntable, instantly transforming the mood. From out of nowhere, Andie's best friend, the overly-dramatic Duckie (Jon Cryer), bursts into the store and for the next two minutes proceeds to lip sync, dance, and gyrate his way through the climactic second half of Redding's 1966 soul classic. It is an enraptured, exuberant performance, almost as if he is physically possessed by the music. Andie, the object of Duckie's affections, however, is clearly unimpressed. Soon after his musical display, t...

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Shane Meadows : representations of liminality, masculinity and class (2024)

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